Farms sell produce directly to consumers in farmer's markets and right on the farm during harvest season. Vineyards do that, too, although the laws about selling alcohol are usually more stringent. In Germany, there's a traditional way around those regulations of who can sell alcohol where.
Here in southern Germany’s wine regions, a besen, or a broomstick, signifies something special. For up to 16 weeks, local laws permit winemakers to set up temporary restaurants to serve their latest harvest. So each year, typically in spring and fall, they sweep out their family room or barn, drag tables out from the garage, and recruit family members as servers. Then, they hang a broomstick outside to indicate they’re open.
These broomsticks inspired the name of these pop-up establishments: besenwirtschaften, or simply besens. The limited season creates demand, as does the feeling of being welcomed into a stranger’s home for a rowdy dinner party. As customers sidle up to each other at long communal tables, three-piece brass bands play catchy folk songs and wine is poured by the same hands that picked the grapes. It’s no wonder besen season is a local favorite.
While the pop-up restaurants are in themselves a loophole in the laws, there are strict regulations about them. But why a broom? Read about traditional besenwirtschaften at Atlas Obscura.