[Creative Commons licensed picture courtesy of Flickr user ChanC]
Singapore is an amazing place.
It is a small island stuck in-between Malaysia and Indonesia. Within many of our lifetimes it was the location of some of the worst ethnic violence seen anywhere in the post-war era. Conversely, within ALL of our lifetimes it has been a shining example of strength through ethnic diversity and a model of progressiveness and modernism.
I've been to Singapore twice - both visits almost 20 years ago (am I really getting that old?!)
When I was there I saw the slow, relentless urban renewal effort in action. Old-fashioned Chinese "shop house" neighborhoods were being systematically torn down and replaced with more modern facilities for living and for commerce. There was some sadness around this march of progress - but perhaps more palpable, a sense of excitement for the future.
Fast-forwarding 20 years from my last extended stay in Singapore and the International Herald Tribune is reporting today that only one old-fashioned rural village remains in Singapore and it, too, is slated for "renewal" itself before long.
The IHT has a nice [short] video about Singapore's last village and the relentless march of time. Are there any "old Asian hands" among our readers who can remember the old Singapore?
[International Herald Tribune]
I also don't understand why one would vacation here for more than 3 days, ever, Let alone take a tour bus/guide. 'Chinatown' is now a very small street, selling uninteresting wares for prices that are practically luxurious compared to their sotuh-east asian neighbours like Thailand.
Though, the zoo and night safari are awesome.
And we can't forget the truly ridiculous control the current party has on the entire country, ranging from ALL public housing, ALL the media, ALL the telecommunications, public transport and other sectors. Free speech is nil and realistically impossible, the "speakers corner" has forever been deserted and the only people who seem to be safe to speak out are taxi drivers during a traffic jam.
The worst part about it is that by "current party" I mean, literally, "family business".
Everyone, like me as I write this, is a bit worried that the government is watching them. Even in classroom discussions, at some point, despite us knowing the government wont go THAT far, we second-guess ourselves if the government is somehow listening in.
Sorry, end of rant, I just felt like people outside of Singapore needed to know this.
I have known about the last rural village for some time now, but have yet to actually visit it. Since they're tearing it down soon, I better hasten my plans to ride my bike there.
I just happened to have went to the city for photography, and I should add that the picture above definitely took a lot of additional camera filters, retouching, or both. The skies here are usually just a vast stretch of white, with lots of diffused light which makes my post-processing a huge pain.
Many other places in Singapore, like small enclaves or lone shophouses, have been slated for redevelopment. Even old shophouses have been repainted for some "modern" kitsch appearance, especially in obscure parts of old Singapore like Geylang and Jalan Sultan. Other villages ("kampongs" in Malay) are actually located in the outlying islands which are similarly forgotten.
It's indeed rather ironic that Singapore seems to only rush to piece together a sort of rich "culture" when pragmatic needs, such as income from tourism, dictates it necessary. It's similar to the country's rationnale for the growth of the arts -- that it is important only because it is an indicator for how modern and civilised our nation is, and that Singapore wants to score on the list, even when it is already the most globalised nation in the world (as of 2007 or 2008, I think).
But yes I must concede that I HEART the ZOO! Haha.
What I still remember today was his description of how Singapore was behind in Malaysia when both countries gained their independence. Singapore didn't have the natural resources like its larger cousin (not even freshwater - it had to be piped in from Malaysia). But in just a few decades, the tiny country pulled very far ahead.
Mahathir Mohammed, the Prime Minister of Malaysia who was the counterpart of Lee, said this about the reason his country's didn't do so well: The Malays "are lazy and like to find the easy way." (his words, not mine: Source).
Back to Adam's post: I used to visit Singapore quite often - and yes, it is an ultra-modern country. It's far more modern than most American cities, actually. It is also becoming (if it's not already) bland and filled with shopping malls after shopping malls.
I do agree with ughsingapore: the Night Zoo is awesome!
His studio is now long gone - paved away to make ways for whatever unmemorable restaurant/store.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Michael_P._Fay
Stop off at Nee Soon for a beer, wander through the back streets to find craftsmen made articles to take back to Australia. A short taxi ride from Sembawang village down to the Johore Straits to the Melbourne Bar excellent food, the most tranquil place on the planet!
Now you have a clinically clean 'Jap' city, with every conceivable amenity, with the majority of the people living in huge concrete jungles.
You are the envy of the rest of the world but you have lost your charm and you don't have a soul.
But you cannot take away my memories of what I called HOME when we were on Far East duties for 6 months at a time. I still love Singapore people they are still as gracious as they ever were.